Gardening is about plants, but it’s also about history and exploring the world around us. All of that came together this week when one of our readers (thanks, Bee!) gave us some Makah Ozette potato starts for us to grow in the Gardzen Test Gardens this year. We’ll confess we had never heard of this varietal so we did some research and discovered not only an interesting garden veggie but also a rich history intertwined with colonialism, globalization, and Native American agriculture and cuisine. It’s fascinating and we wanted to share it with you, so let’s dig in and learn more about the Makah Ozette potato.
Gardzen Executive Summary:
· The Makah Ozette potato is a varietal of potato developed by the Makah Tribe in what is now Washington State, USA.
· While most potatoes grown in North America were introduced from Europe, the Makah Ozette came directly from South America via Spanish colonizers.
· Well-adapted to the cool wet climate of the Pacific Northwest, the potato became a staple of the Makan people and became part of their agricultural and gastronomical traditions.
· The Makah Ozette potato is a fingerling variety, growing about 7 inches/18cm long with a knobby shape, a nutty flavor, and a rich, creamy texture.
· Makah Ozette potatoes were largely forgotten outside of the Makah community until the 1980s, and are now receiving more attention and are increasingly available to gardeners around the world.
The Origins of Makah Ozette Potatoes
In addition to the rich native history of the region, many European powers have left their mark on what is now the US Pacific Northwest. Over the years British, American, Russian, and Spanish explorers, among others, have colonized or settled that part of the world. The story of the Makah Ozette potato starts in 1792, when Spanish explorers built a fort on Neah Bay, part of the Makah Tribe’s traditional homeland. In an attempt at self-sufficiency, the Spanish planted gardens around the fort, and this garden included both Old World and New World crops, including potatoes. The Spanish fort was short lived, abandoned when spring storms threatened the safety of the ships anchored in the bay. However, during their brief tenure in the region the Spanish traded with their Makah neighbors and thus introduced the potato to them.
This may represent a truly unique moment in agricultural history. While potatoes as a both a plant and a domesticated crop originate in South America, all other known North American potatoes were introduced via Europe and are descended from varietals developed there. The Makah Ozette’s story takes place entirely in the Americas, albeit transported by the Spanish. Makah farmers spent two centuries developing this varietal to suite their needs and gardens. It’s a longstanding part of their cuisine, which is a culinary tradition worth exploring if you’re interested.
Growing and Cooking Makah Ozette Potatoes
Now that this varietal is getting more attention outside the Makah Tribe, many of us are interested in growing it at home. The tribe’s popular name “Makah” is an exonym drawn from the neighboring S’Klallam language; the Makah Tribe’s name for itself is “qʷidiččaʔa·tx̌” which means “the people who live by the rocks and seagulls.”. In S’Klallam, “Makah” means “generous with food” and it’s a fitting description as the tribe has been very willing to share their growing and cooking techniques with the rest of us. We’re grateful for that as we experiment with growing these potatoes in our own gardens.
Based on published descriptions and our own examination of our seed potatoes, the Makah Ozette is a fingerling variety, with a relatively thin skin. It grows up to seven inches long and has a nutty, earthy flavor with a creamy texture when cooked. Roasting seems to be the preferred method for preparation and a wide variety of recipes are available online which take advantage of this potato’s unique flavor.
Given its geographical origins—the Andes by way of the Washington State—it’s no surprise that this is a cool weather varietal that prefers moist conditions. We’ll be growing it as such, doing our best to provide at least partial shade and keeping the soil cool and damp. With that in mind, we’re growing ours in potato bags so that we can move them as needed. The Gardzen Test Gardens are located in southeastern North Carolina, which is in generally much warmer and sunnier than the Makah Ozette’s traditional home. Like all potatoes, this one prefers a rich, relatively loose soil with rich organic content in order to thrive.
When History and Gardening Come Together
We’re only at the start of our journey with this potato varietal, but we’ve already learned so much from the Makah Ozette. It’s a reminder that every culture develops the plants and agriculture that it needs, while also exposing us to the complex history of cultural interaction in the Americas and beyond. As an important heirloom varietal, the Makah Ozette potato is both a link to the past and a symbol of agricultural and culinary diversity. In a world that’s changing so fast, all of these lessons may be important for gardeners and food-lovers as we move further into the 21st century.
We’re grateful to our friend Bee for sharing these potatoes with us, and to all the Makah farmers and gardeners who developed this varietal and have kept it alive across the years. If you have any experience with Makah Ozette potatoes, please reach out as we’re still learning and you may be able to help us all! Gardzen is all about community and we love to hear from you!
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